Prepare to be amazed. Alright, maybe not amazed, but at least perhaps slightly impressed. If you’re like me, and you don’t have any lingerie stores near you that carry the size(s) you need, and you order a majority of your bras online, then you’ve probably realized that a lot of the time, you really have to guess what size you need based on previous experience and reviews. And you’ve also probably discovered that sometimes, the bra just doesn’t fit. No matter how many scoops, swoops, sucking in and re-adjustings you do, some bras come straight from bra hell (can’t you almost hear them cackling as they stab their gore into your sternum for the fourth time?) That’s where I come in. This will be the first in a series of bra fixes and alterations, because sometimes returning or exchanging that bra becomes incredibly expensive if you’re not conveniently located, and my new motto has been “if it doesn’t fit, make it fit”. This post will tackle how to make bra cups smaller. The beauty of this trick is that it works if you ordered a cup size too big by accident, if the bra is just sized larger, if one breast is smaller than the other, or even if you’ve recently lost a bit of weight and your favourite bras are now wrinkling sadly. The best part about this alteration is that nothing permanent is done to the bra, so if you grow or put on a bit of weight, you can easily just cut the stitches and restore the bra to its original cup volume. All you’ll need is a needle and thread, some pins, and maybe a thimble, depending on how much you value your fingers.
Like the genius I am, I decided to order a 28FF rather than my usual 28F in the new colourway for the Cleo Marcie (candy pink) because I’d somehow convinced myself based on a few photos that I’d totally be able to fill out the FF. Wrong. So wrong. Unfortunately, by the time I’d received the 28FF and realized my horrible mistake, the 28F had sold out, leaving me with a bra that was absolutely stunning, but just a few smidges too big. So, I decided to put my new motto into action.
To begin, take the
victim bra of your choice and figure out how much the bra doesn’t fit you by. Is it a little bagging, or are you swimming in the cups? Next, figure out where the cups wrinkle the most. (Top, bottom, sides, etc). Once you’ve got that figured out, you’re going to need some pins. The Marcie bra had too much space around the top and apex of the bra, which gave me an awkward shape. To combat this, I took the main seam of the bra, the big one that runs from the strap to the gore, and tucked at the gore so the cup was pulled (comfortably) tight over my boob, like this:
Once you’ve done this, pin the fabric in place. You may want to pin it a few times to keep it from sliding around as you sew. Fold the fabric over, so that it’s right up against the wire, like this:
Next, take your threaded needle and begin to sew. Put the first stitch through the folded fabric, and from then on, sew the folded fabric to the gore. Obviously, the gore has very stiff fabric and is a bit harder to puncture. Try to avoid the wire, because that’s REALLY hard to puncture. This is where a thimble will come in handy. Work your way from the seam to the top of the gore, making tight little stitches, securing the fabric:
The final product looks like this:
And the difference in cup sizes is quite noticeable. It’s a full cup size smaller, and fits like a glove!
If you want to change the volume in the bottom of the cups, (making them less deep) do the same thing as above, but with the vertical seam. Pinch it to the bottom wire and sew it and a bit of the fabric around it in place. This also works if there’s wrinkling in the sides of the cups because the wires are too wide. Pinch some of the extra fabric to the wire and sew in place. Caution: Those two alterations mentioned above affect the cup fit a lot more than the one I did above, so be careful how much fabric you sew to the wire. On this bra I tried both of those alterations, but found the seam-gore alteration more suitable to what I needed, and removed the bottom-seam alteration. I kept the pictures, though:
I hope this helps, and if you have any questions/concerns/comments, please leave them in the comments – and good luck!