Hello, reader! My last post, the How to Measure guide covered the acquisition of your starting point bra size. This post will cover the rules that are standard of bra fitting. The rules are:
- If the band rides up your back, go down a size (or a few).
- If the gore doesn’t tack firmly to your chest, go up in the cup.
- If there’s wrinkling in the cup, that means it’s too big and you need to go down in the cup.*
- If the straps dig into your shoulders, loosen them.
- If the straps slip off your shoulders, tighten them.
- If your cups cut into you breast tissue, giving you the “quadboob” effect, go up in the cup. (I just love how that rhymes…)
- A proper-fitting bra should encase all of your breast tissue (including the tissue around your underarms, after you’ve scooped it in).
- A band should be fit snugly on the first hook (the second and third ones are for when the bra stretches out over time), and you should only be able to pull the band a maximum of two inches away from your body.**
- If a band size is tight to the point where it causes you pain, go up a band size.
I recommend you check out Bravissimo’s Boob School as well, as it’s proven to be very helpful.
*If there’s wrinkling in the cup, it does not always mean you need to go down a cup size. Only go down a cup size if there is wrinkling all around, and not just in one place. If the wrinkling is in a small section of the bra (such as the upper portion, or by the wires under your arms) it is likely a shape incompatibility error rather than a size error, and going down a cup size could make the entire cup too small. Try a different style instead.
**If a woman has a bony ribcage, then she may need a bigger band size than what she measures, as having a very firm band could be painful. As well, if someone has a skin sensitivity or other issue, they may not be able to wear as tight a band as they measure.
As well, some women who have a bit of cushion around their ribcage may measure as one measurement, but would be better suited to a smaller band measurement because bras are designed to give, and must provide most of the breast support.